Questions & Answers
To send Al your questions and topics click here, then check back here for your answers.
Q: Jim wrote: I 'am going stripper fishing off a party boat from Sandy Hook for the first time. The question is what type of fishing line to use test, color etc. I will be using a Shimano ct-400 reel & a St. Croix 7' rod, medium action rod. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank
A: Jim, Your rod and reel may be a little too light for fishing stripers off a party
boat.Ê However,Ê I would spool up the reel with 25 lb test Trilene Big Game
or Ande pink and then put on a 25 foot shock leader of 40 lb test joined
with a double uni-knot. Good luck
Q: Scott in Wantagh wrote: My buddy is getting ready to buy a 27 ft albemarle. We currently fish
for bass weaks and fluke like everyone else on LI, in the back bays and JB inlet. With the new boat we are going to try for Tuna and Mako etc...Can you suggest a good Reel and rod combo for this type of fishing? We will be trolling for tuna and also live lining snappers and butterfish for
tuna. Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks
A: Scott,
I would recommend a 6 foot stand up trolling rod rated for 40-100 lb test,
with either a Slick Butt or an Aftco Uni Butt and Aftco roller guides. For
the reel I would recommend either a Penn 50SW or a Shimano TLD30 II. Spool
the reel up with 80 LB spectra with a 200 yard topshot of 60 lb Ande mono.
Try Sea Isle in Freeport or Augie's in Babylon. They have a good selection
of rods and reels.
Q: Ken wrote: I have a question about how to set drag for fishing. I have been reading a lot on fishing for fluke and strippers. Using a conventional reel from a boat how do I set the drag? I have been told 1/3 the breaking point of line, but how do you know what that is? The reel doesn't have a scale or number setting on it. Do you have to go by feel? I am new to fishing and I know
the drag is important and I don't know if I am setting it right. thank you.
A: Ken,
Run the line through the guides and attach a snap swivel to the end of your
line.
Inexpensive way. Get a cloth bag with a closable top and fill it with
enough sinkers to approximate 1/3 of the breaking strength of your line.
With the bag of sinkers on the floor, attach the snap swivel to the bag and
try to lift the bag off the floor. Adjust the drag so that the bag will
slowly drop to the floor as you lift it. Then, put the bag down on the
floor and slowly try to pull the line off the reel. Get a feel for how much
tension there is.
Professional way: Buy yourself a Chatillion spring scale or a digital scale
like Normark or Berkeley. Attach the swivel to the scale hook and with
someone holding and reading the scale, begin to take up the slack line and
apply pressure to the scale. Initially lock up the drag and begin to back
off on the drag slowly. Have the person holding the scale continuously
reading the pounds of drag until you reach the drag setting you desire.
Remember, that the drag should begin to slip at 1/3 of the line test.
Q: Geoff wrote: I purchased a hand held Garmin GPS, and have become proficient with it. For navigation, and places I would like to return to its great with pin point accuracy. However, when entering lon and lat points provided by Dave or others, I can not find a wreck or an aircraft carrier for that matter. Is there something I am missing? I have a small 20' center console, and on those flat ocean days would love to be able to get on top of some of those great wrecks and reefs I read so much about. Can you help and make some suggestions?
A: Geoff,
Lat/Lon numbers do not automatically convert to GPS coordinates. I don't
know of any program that does that. Talk to the people at the electronocs
store where you bought the unit. Maybe they can be of help.
Most people with boats had a previous Loran machine that they used to get to
the wrecks they had previously charted. Then they used their new GPS
machine to save the new GPS numbers.
Q: Jerrold wrote: I love the porgy and seabass rigs with the three short hooks because they never get tangled. Do you know of any bait and tackle stores that sell them on the island? If not can you put me in touch with some one who will make the rigs for me. I am looking to buy a dozen or two of these rigs.
A: Jerrold,
I would recommend you learn to make your own rigs. It's very easy and a lot
cheaper to make your own. You need to learn to tie a few knots: snell knot,
perfection loop and dropper loop.
Buy a copy of "Practical Fishing Knots" by Sosin and Kreh in any good tackle
shop.
The assorted leader material, hooks, teasers and black barrel swivels you
can buy from Terminal Tackle in Kings Park, Long Island.
30 lb test mono leader material in 48 inch sticks
Hooks:
Porgies - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 2.
Sea Bass - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 3/0
Teasers:
Porgies - Oval chatreuse glow beads. Same for the seabass.
Jumbo Sea bass - 3 inch B-2 Squids in Glow.
Black Barrel Swivels - 30lb.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Q: Looking for more information on rod building...
A: The bible on the subject of rodbuilding is "Advanced Custom Rod Building" by
Dale Clemens. As one of Dale's deciples I can vouch for the content of the
book. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Also, I will be
hosting a rodbuilding seminar in January 2000 in Connecticut. If you would
like information on it just send me and email.
Q: Rob wrote that he will be doing some offshore winter wreck trips for sea
bass, cod and pollack. He wants to know some tackle and rigging
recommendations.
A: Rob, these are deep water wrecks ranging from 200 - 250 feet deep. I
typically use the same rod and reel set up for sea bass as well as cod and
pollack. I use a custom Seeker composite rod, their Black Steel model, which
is rated from 20-40 pound test and is seven feet long. I use a Newell reel,
model 338 - 3.6, spooled with 30 pound Spiderwire with a 30 foot shock leader
of 50 lb mono.
For terminal rigging using bait, typically skimmer clams, I take four feet of
50 lb mono and tie on a 50 lb black barrel swivel with an improved clinch
knot. On the other end of the leader I tie a sinker loop. Then tie two
dropper loops, the first about 10 inches above the sinker loop and the second
about 24 inches above the first dropper loop. Now snell two 4/0 Mustad
baitholder hooks to 50 lb leader material. The snell should be about 10
inches long and attach them to the dropper loops. Add a sinker of
appropriate size and your rig is complete. The 4/0 hooks will catch the sea
bass and be able to holder any cod or pollack you are likely to hook. I have
taken many cod and pollack to 30 pounds and more with this rig.
If big pollack are biting, you can change your bait rig to a diamond jig and
tube rig.
Take four feet of 50 pound mono with a 50 lb black barrel swivel tied to one
end and an 8 to 10 ounce diamond jig with a single 6/0 Siwash hook tied to
the other end. Tie a 4 inch dropper loop about 24 inches above the jig and
add a chartreuse green 5/0 teaser feather or tube to the dropper loop.
Q: Alex wrote asking how to increase his casting distance in the surf?
A: The first rule in maximizing casting distance is completely balance tackle.
That means having the proper rod, reel and line matched to the lure or
sinlker weights being used. Alex is throwing lures ranging in weight from a
half to two and a half ounces. He is using an eleven foot graphite rod rated
from 3 -6 ounces, a 22 ounce spinning reel rate 20-30 pound test line and 15
pound braided line.
Let's analyze the situation. First, given the lure weights Alex is casting,
his rod and reel combination is too heavy. As a result, he is unable to
load the rod enough on the cast to maximize his casting distance. The rod is
rated from 3 - 6 ounces with a sweet spot of 4 ounces, which is above his
lure weight range. Second, the reel is very heavy, further reducing his
casting efficiency. Finally, he is using braided line which causes
additional friction as it passes through the guides.
If Alex wants to maximize his casting distance in that lure weight range he
needs to first have a rod rated in that same lure weight range. Typically
these rods are from 9 to 10 feet long and rated from 10-20 pound test. A
matching reel capable of holding 250 yards of 15 lb test mono line, like a
Penn 5500SS, should balance out nicely with the rod. I would stay away from
braided line and use a quality 15 pound mono like Ande or Berkeley Big Game.
Q: Best bait, lures and bucktails for fishing fluke from Reynolds Channel from
the beach.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes
are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the
shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be
distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface
water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay
along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make
detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on
either the incoming or outgoing tide.
As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2
to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver
bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh
spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let
them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them
slightly as they bounce along the bottom.
Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty
hard and you need to set the hook firmly.
The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the
first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for
that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't
be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep
them.
I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.
Return to Al Goldberg's Tackle Corner or Dave's Homepage.
A: Jim, Your rod and reel may be a little too light for fishing stripers off a party boat.Ê However,Ê I would spool up the reel with 25 lb test Trilene Big Game or Ande pink and then put on a 25 foot shock leader of 40 lb test joined with a double uni-knot. Good luck
Q: Scott in Wantagh wrote: My buddy is getting ready to buy a 27 ft albemarle. We currently fish
for bass weaks and fluke like everyone else on LI, in the back bays and JB inlet. With the new boat we are going to try for Tuna and Mako etc...Can you suggest a good Reel and rod combo for this type of fishing? We will be trolling for tuna and also live lining snappers and butterfish for
tuna. Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks
A: Scott,
I would recommend a 6 foot stand up trolling rod rated for 40-100 lb test,
with either a Slick Butt or an Aftco Uni Butt and Aftco roller guides. For
the reel I would recommend either a Penn 50SW or a Shimano TLD30 II. Spool
the reel up with 80 LB spectra with a 200 yard topshot of 60 lb Ande mono.
Try Sea Isle in Freeport or Augie's in Babylon. They have a good selection
of rods and reels.
Q: Ken wrote: I have a question about how to set drag for fishing. I have been reading a lot on fishing for fluke and strippers. Using a conventional reel from a boat how do I set the drag? I have been told 1/3 the breaking point of line, but how do you know what that is? The reel doesn't have a scale or number setting on it. Do you have to go by feel? I am new to fishing and I know
the drag is important and I don't know if I am setting it right. thank you.
A: Ken,
Run the line through the guides and attach a snap swivel to the end of your
line.
Inexpensive way. Get a cloth bag with a closable top and fill it with
enough sinkers to approximate 1/3 of the breaking strength of your line.
With the bag of sinkers on the floor, attach the snap swivel to the bag and
try to lift the bag off the floor. Adjust the drag so that the bag will
slowly drop to the floor as you lift it. Then, put the bag down on the
floor and slowly try to pull the line off the reel. Get a feel for how much
tension there is.
Professional way: Buy yourself a Chatillion spring scale or a digital scale
like Normark or Berkeley. Attach the swivel to the scale hook and with
someone holding and reading the scale, begin to take up the slack line and
apply pressure to the scale. Initially lock up the drag and begin to back
off on the drag slowly. Have the person holding the scale continuously
reading the pounds of drag until you reach the drag setting you desire.
Remember, that the drag should begin to slip at 1/3 of the line test.
Q: Geoff wrote: I purchased a hand held Garmin GPS, and have become proficient with it. For navigation, and places I would like to return to its great with pin point accuracy. However, when entering lon and lat points provided by Dave or others, I can not find a wreck or an aircraft carrier for that matter. Is there something I am missing? I have a small 20' center console, and on those flat ocean days would love to be able to get on top of some of those great wrecks and reefs I read so much about. Can you help and make some suggestions?
A: Geoff,
Lat/Lon numbers do not automatically convert to GPS coordinates. I don't
know of any program that does that. Talk to the people at the electronocs
store where you bought the unit. Maybe they can be of help.
Most people with boats had a previous Loran machine that they used to get to
the wrecks they had previously charted. Then they used their new GPS
machine to save the new GPS numbers.
Q: Jerrold wrote: I love the porgy and seabass rigs with the three short hooks because they never get tangled. Do you know of any bait and tackle stores that sell them on the island? If not can you put me in touch with some one who will make the rigs for me. I am looking to buy a dozen or two of these rigs.
A: Jerrold,
I would recommend you learn to make your own rigs. It's very easy and a lot
cheaper to make your own. You need to learn to tie a few knots: snell knot,
perfection loop and dropper loop.
Buy a copy of "Practical Fishing Knots" by Sosin and Kreh in any good tackle
shop.
The assorted leader material, hooks, teasers and black barrel swivels you
can buy from Terminal Tackle in Kings Park, Long Island.
30 lb test mono leader material in 48 inch sticks
Hooks:
Porgies - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 2.
Sea Bass - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 3/0
Teasers:
Porgies - Oval chatreuse glow beads. Same for the seabass.
Jumbo Sea bass - 3 inch B-2 Squids in Glow.
Black Barrel Swivels - 30lb.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Q: Looking for more information on rod building...
A: The bible on the subject of rodbuilding is "Advanced Custom Rod Building" by
Dale Clemens. As one of Dale's deciples I can vouch for the content of the
book. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Also, I will be
hosting a rodbuilding seminar in January 2000 in Connecticut. If you would
like information on it just send me and email.
Q: Rob wrote that he will be doing some offshore winter wreck trips for sea
bass, cod and pollack. He wants to know some tackle and rigging
recommendations.
A: Rob, these are deep water wrecks ranging from 200 - 250 feet deep. I
typically use the same rod and reel set up for sea bass as well as cod and
pollack. I use a custom Seeker composite rod, their Black Steel model, which
is rated from 20-40 pound test and is seven feet long. I use a Newell reel,
model 338 - 3.6, spooled with 30 pound Spiderwire with a 30 foot shock leader
of 50 lb mono.
For terminal rigging using bait, typically skimmer clams, I take four feet of
50 lb mono and tie on a 50 lb black barrel swivel with an improved clinch
knot. On the other end of the leader I tie a sinker loop. Then tie two
dropper loops, the first about 10 inches above the sinker loop and the second
about 24 inches above the first dropper loop. Now snell two 4/0 Mustad
baitholder hooks to 50 lb leader material. The snell should be about 10
inches long and attach them to the dropper loops. Add a sinker of
appropriate size and your rig is complete. The 4/0 hooks will catch the sea
bass and be able to holder any cod or pollack you are likely to hook. I have
taken many cod and pollack to 30 pounds and more with this rig.
If big pollack are biting, you can change your bait rig to a diamond jig and
tube rig.
Take four feet of 50 pound mono with a 50 lb black barrel swivel tied to one
end and an 8 to 10 ounce diamond jig with a single 6/0 Siwash hook tied to
the other end. Tie a 4 inch dropper loop about 24 inches above the jig and
add a chartreuse green 5/0 teaser feather or tube to the dropper loop.
Q: Alex wrote asking how to increase his casting distance in the surf?
A: The first rule in maximizing casting distance is completely balance tackle.
That means having the proper rod, reel and line matched to the lure or
sinlker weights being used. Alex is throwing lures ranging in weight from a
half to two and a half ounces. He is using an eleven foot graphite rod rated
from 3 -6 ounces, a 22 ounce spinning reel rate 20-30 pound test line and 15
pound braided line.
Let's analyze the situation. First, given the lure weights Alex is casting,
his rod and reel combination is too heavy. As a result, he is unable to
load the rod enough on the cast to maximize his casting distance. The rod is
rated from 3 - 6 ounces with a sweet spot of 4 ounces, which is above his
lure weight range. Second, the reel is very heavy, further reducing his
casting efficiency. Finally, he is using braided line which causes
additional friction as it passes through the guides.
If Alex wants to maximize his casting distance in that lure weight range he
needs to first have a rod rated in that same lure weight range. Typically
these rods are from 9 to 10 feet long and rated from 10-20 pound test. A
matching reel capable of holding 250 yards of 15 lb test mono line, like a
Penn 5500SS, should balance out nicely with the rod. I would stay away from
braided line and use a quality 15 pound mono like Ande or Berkeley Big Game.
Q: Best bait, lures and bucktails for fishing fluke from Reynolds Channel from
the beach.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes
are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the
shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be
distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface
water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay
along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make
detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on
either the incoming or outgoing tide.
As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2
to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver
bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh
spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let
them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them
slightly as they bounce along the bottom.
Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty
hard and you need to set the hook firmly.
The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the
first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for
that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't
be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep
them.
I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.
Return to Al Goldberg's Tackle Corner or Dave's Homepage.
A: Ken, Run the line through the guides and attach a snap swivel to the end of your line. Inexpensive way. Get a cloth bag with a closable top and fill it with enough sinkers to approximate 1/3 of the breaking strength of your line. With the bag of sinkers on the floor, attach the snap swivel to the bag and try to lift the bag off the floor. Adjust the drag so that the bag will slowly drop to the floor as you lift it. Then, put the bag down on the floor and slowly try to pull the line off the reel. Get a feel for how much tension there is. Professional way: Buy yourself a Chatillion spring scale or a digital scale like Normark or Berkeley. Attach the swivel to the scale hook and with someone holding and reading the scale, begin to take up the slack line and apply pressure to the scale. Initially lock up the drag and begin to back off on the drag slowly. Have the person holding the scale continuously reading the pounds of drag until you reach the drag setting you desire. Remember, that the drag should begin to slip at 1/3 of the line test.
Q: Geoff wrote: I purchased a hand held Garmin GPS, and have become proficient with it. For navigation, and places I would like to return to its great with pin point accuracy. However, when entering lon and lat points provided by Dave or others, I can not find a wreck or an aircraft carrier for that matter. Is there something I am missing? I have a small 20' center console, and on those flat ocean days would love to be able to get on top of some of those great wrecks and reefs I read so much about. Can you help and make some suggestions?
A: Geoff,
Lat/Lon numbers do not automatically convert to GPS coordinates. I don't
know of any program that does that. Talk to the people at the electronocs
store where you bought the unit. Maybe they can be of help.
Most people with boats had a previous Loran machine that they used to get to
the wrecks they had previously charted. Then they used their new GPS
machine to save the new GPS numbers.
Q: Jerrold wrote: I love the porgy and seabass rigs with the three short hooks because they never get tangled. Do you know of any bait and tackle stores that sell them on the island? If not can you put me in touch with some one who will make the rigs for me. I am looking to buy a dozen or two of these rigs.
A: Jerrold,
I would recommend you learn to make your own rigs. It's very easy and a lot
cheaper to make your own. You need to learn to tie a few knots: snell knot,
perfection loop and dropper loop.
Buy a copy of "Practical Fishing Knots" by Sosin and Kreh in any good tackle
shop.
The assorted leader material, hooks, teasers and black barrel swivels you
can buy from Terminal Tackle in Kings Park, Long Island.
30 lb test mono leader material in 48 inch sticks
Hooks:
Porgies - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 2.
Sea Bass - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 3/0
Teasers:
Porgies - Oval chatreuse glow beads. Same for the seabass.
Jumbo Sea bass - 3 inch B-2 Squids in Glow.
Black Barrel Swivels - 30lb.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Q: Looking for more information on rod building...
A: The bible on the subject of rodbuilding is "Advanced Custom Rod Building" by
Dale Clemens. As one of Dale's deciples I can vouch for the content of the
book. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Also, I will be
hosting a rodbuilding seminar in January 2000 in Connecticut. If you would
like information on it just send me and email.
Q: Rob wrote that he will be doing some offshore winter wreck trips for sea
bass, cod and pollack. He wants to know some tackle and rigging
recommendations.
A: Rob, these are deep water wrecks ranging from 200 - 250 feet deep. I
typically use the same rod and reel set up for sea bass as well as cod and
pollack. I use a custom Seeker composite rod, their Black Steel model, which
is rated from 20-40 pound test and is seven feet long. I use a Newell reel,
model 338 - 3.6, spooled with 30 pound Spiderwire with a 30 foot shock leader
of 50 lb mono.
For terminal rigging using bait, typically skimmer clams, I take four feet of
50 lb mono and tie on a 50 lb black barrel swivel with an improved clinch
knot. On the other end of the leader I tie a sinker loop. Then tie two
dropper loops, the first about 10 inches above the sinker loop and the second
about 24 inches above the first dropper loop. Now snell two 4/0 Mustad
baitholder hooks to 50 lb leader material. The snell should be about 10
inches long and attach them to the dropper loops. Add a sinker of
appropriate size and your rig is complete. The 4/0 hooks will catch the sea
bass and be able to holder any cod or pollack you are likely to hook. I have
taken many cod and pollack to 30 pounds and more with this rig.
If big pollack are biting, you can change your bait rig to a diamond jig and
tube rig.
Take four feet of 50 pound mono with a 50 lb black barrel swivel tied to one
end and an 8 to 10 ounce diamond jig with a single 6/0 Siwash hook tied to
the other end. Tie a 4 inch dropper loop about 24 inches above the jig and
add a chartreuse green 5/0 teaser feather or tube to the dropper loop.
Q: Alex wrote asking how to increase his casting distance in the surf?
A: The first rule in maximizing casting distance is completely balance tackle.
That means having the proper rod, reel and line matched to the lure or
sinlker weights being used. Alex is throwing lures ranging in weight from a
half to two and a half ounces. He is using an eleven foot graphite rod rated
from 3 -6 ounces, a 22 ounce spinning reel rate 20-30 pound test line and 15
pound braided line.
Let's analyze the situation. First, given the lure weights Alex is casting,
his rod and reel combination is too heavy. As a result, he is unable to
load the rod enough on the cast to maximize his casting distance. The rod is
rated from 3 - 6 ounces with a sweet spot of 4 ounces, which is above his
lure weight range. Second, the reel is very heavy, further reducing his
casting efficiency. Finally, he is using braided line which causes
additional friction as it passes through the guides.
If Alex wants to maximize his casting distance in that lure weight range he
needs to first have a rod rated in that same lure weight range. Typically
these rods are from 9 to 10 feet long and rated from 10-20 pound test. A
matching reel capable of holding 250 yards of 15 lb test mono line, like a
Penn 5500SS, should balance out nicely with the rod. I would stay away from
braided line and use a quality 15 pound mono like Ande or Berkeley Big Game.
Q: Best bait, lures and bucktails for fishing fluke from Reynolds Channel from
the beach.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes
are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the
shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be
distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface
water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay
along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make
detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on
either the incoming or outgoing tide.
As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2
to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver
bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh
spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let
them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them
slightly as they bounce along the bottom.
Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty
hard and you need to set the hook firmly.
The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the
first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for
that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't
be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep
them.
I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.
Return to Al Goldberg's Tackle Corner or Dave's Homepage.
A: Jerrold, I would recommend you learn to make your own rigs. It's very easy and a lot cheaper to make your own. You need to learn to tie a few knots: snell knot, perfection loop and dropper loop. Buy a copy of "Practical Fishing Knots" by Sosin and Kreh in any good tackle shop.
The assorted leader material, hooks, teasers and black barrel swivels you can buy from Terminal Tackle in Kings Park, Long Island. 30 lb test mono leader material in 48 inch sticks
Hooks:
Porgies - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 2.
Sea Bass - Mustad baitholder #92641, size 3/0
Teasers:
Porgies - Oval chatreuse glow beads. Same for the seabass.
Jumbo Sea bass - 3 inch B-2 Squids in Glow.
Black Barrel Swivels - 30lb.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Q: Looking for more information on rod building...
A: The bible on the subject of rodbuilding is "Advanced Custom Rod Building" by
Dale Clemens. As one of Dale's deciples I can vouch for the content of the
book. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Also, I will be
hosting a rodbuilding seminar in January 2000 in Connecticut. If you would
like information on it just send me and email.
Q: Rob wrote that he will be doing some offshore winter wreck trips for sea
bass, cod and pollack. He wants to know some tackle and rigging
recommendations.
A: Rob, these are deep water wrecks ranging from 200 - 250 feet deep. I
typically use the same rod and reel set up for sea bass as well as cod and
pollack. I use a custom Seeker composite rod, their Black Steel model, which
is rated from 20-40 pound test and is seven feet long. I use a Newell reel,
model 338 - 3.6, spooled with 30 pound Spiderwire with a 30 foot shock leader
of 50 lb mono.
For terminal rigging using bait, typically skimmer clams, I take four feet of
50 lb mono and tie on a 50 lb black barrel swivel with an improved clinch
knot. On the other end of the leader I tie a sinker loop. Then tie two
dropper loops, the first about 10 inches above the sinker loop and the second
about 24 inches above the first dropper loop. Now snell two 4/0 Mustad
baitholder hooks to 50 lb leader material. The snell should be about 10
inches long and attach them to the dropper loops. Add a sinker of
appropriate size and your rig is complete. The 4/0 hooks will catch the sea
bass and be able to holder any cod or pollack you are likely to hook. I have
taken many cod and pollack to 30 pounds and more with this rig.
If big pollack are biting, you can change your bait rig to a diamond jig and
tube rig.
Take four feet of 50 pound mono with a 50 lb black barrel swivel tied to one
end and an 8 to 10 ounce diamond jig with a single 6/0 Siwash hook tied to
the other end. Tie a 4 inch dropper loop about 24 inches above the jig and
add a chartreuse green 5/0 teaser feather or tube to the dropper loop.
Q: Alex wrote asking how to increase his casting distance in the surf?
A: The first rule in maximizing casting distance is completely balance tackle.
That means having the proper rod, reel and line matched to the lure or
sinlker weights being used. Alex is throwing lures ranging in weight from a
half to two and a half ounces. He is using an eleven foot graphite rod rated
from 3 -6 ounces, a 22 ounce spinning reel rate 20-30 pound test line and 15
pound braided line.
Let's analyze the situation. First, given the lure weights Alex is casting,
his rod and reel combination is too heavy. As a result, he is unable to
load the rod enough on the cast to maximize his casting distance. The rod is
rated from 3 - 6 ounces with a sweet spot of 4 ounces, which is above his
lure weight range. Second, the reel is very heavy, further reducing his
casting efficiency. Finally, he is using braided line which causes
additional friction as it passes through the guides.
If Alex wants to maximize his casting distance in that lure weight range he
needs to first have a rod rated in that same lure weight range. Typically
these rods are from 9 to 10 feet long and rated from 10-20 pound test. A
matching reel capable of holding 250 yards of 15 lb test mono line, like a
Penn 5500SS, should balance out nicely with the rod. I would stay away from
braided line and use a quality 15 pound mono like Ande or Berkeley Big Game.
Q: Best bait, lures and bucktails for fishing fluke from Reynolds Channel from
the beach.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes
are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the
shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be
distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface
water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay
along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make
detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on
either the incoming or outgoing tide.
As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2
to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver
bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh
spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let
them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them
slightly as they bounce along the bottom.
Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty
hard and you need to set the hook firmly.
The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the
first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for
that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't
be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep
them.
I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.
Return to Al Goldberg's Tackle Corner or Dave's Homepage.
A: Rob, these are deep water wrecks ranging from 200 - 250 feet deep. I typically use the same rod and reel set up for sea bass as well as cod and pollack. I use a custom Seeker composite rod, their Black Steel model, which is rated from 20-40 pound test and is seven feet long. I use a Newell reel, model 338 - 3.6, spooled with 30 pound Spiderwire with a 30 foot shock leader of 50 lb mono.
For terminal rigging using bait, typically skimmer clams, I take four feet of 50 lb mono and tie on a 50 lb black barrel swivel with an improved clinch knot. On the other end of the leader I tie a sinker loop. Then tie two dropper loops, the first about 10 inches above the sinker loop and the second about 24 inches above the first dropper loop. Now snell two 4/0 Mustad baitholder hooks to 50 lb leader material. The snell should be about 10 inches long and attach them to the dropper loops. Add a sinker of appropriate size and your rig is complete. The 4/0 hooks will catch the sea bass and be able to holder any cod or pollack you are likely to hook. I have taken many cod and pollack to 30 pounds and more with this rig.
If big pollack are biting, you can change your bait rig to a diamond jig and tube rig. Take four feet of 50 pound mono with a 50 lb black barrel swivel tied to one end and an 8 to 10 ounce diamond jig with a single 6/0 Siwash hook tied to the other end. Tie a 4 inch dropper loop about 24 inches above the jig and add a chartreuse green 5/0 teaser feather or tube to the dropper loop.
Q: Alex wrote asking how to increase his casting distance in the surf?
A: The first rule in maximizing casting distance is completely balance tackle.
That means having the proper rod, reel and line matched to the lure or
sinlker weights being used. Alex is throwing lures ranging in weight from a
half to two and a half ounces. He is using an eleven foot graphite rod rated
from 3 -6 ounces, a 22 ounce spinning reel rate 20-30 pound test line and 15
pound braided line.
Let's analyze the situation. First, given the lure weights Alex is casting,
his rod and reel combination is too heavy. As a result, he is unable to
load the rod enough on the cast to maximize his casting distance. The rod is
rated from 3 - 6 ounces with a sweet spot of 4 ounces, which is above his
lure weight range. Second, the reel is very heavy, further reducing his
casting efficiency. Finally, he is using braided line which causes
additional friction as it passes through the guides.
If Alex wants to maximize his casting distance in that lure weight range he
needs to first have a rod rated in that same lure weight range. Typically
these rods are from 9 to 10 feet long and rated from 10-20 pound test. A
matching reel capable of holding 250 yards of 15 lb test mono line, like a
Penn 5500SS, should balance out nicely with the rod. I would stay away from
braided line and use a quality 15 pound mono like Ande or Berkeley Big Game.
Q: Best bait, lures and bucktails for fishing fluke from Reynolds Channel from
the beach.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes
are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the
shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be
distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface
water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay
along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make
detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on
either the incoming or outgoing tide.
As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2
to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver
bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh
spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let
them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them
slightly as they bounce along the bottom.
Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty
hard and you need to set the hook firmly.
The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the
first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for
that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't
be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep
them.
I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.
Return to Al Goldberg's Tackle Corner or Dave's Homepage.
A: The most important thing you need to know is where the drop offs and holes are with respect to the beach. Therefore I would suggest you walk the shoreline at low tide and look for the drop offs and holes. They will be distinguished by a change in both the color of the water and the surface water patterns as the water flows over these structures. Fluke like to lay along these drop offs and holes to have bait swept by them in the tide. Make detailed notes of these areas. Some of these spots will only produce on either the incoming or outgoing tide. As far a productive lures and bucktails for fluke, small bucktails from 1/2 to 1 ounce in white, yellow, chartreuse green and pink are effective. Also silver bullets in the same sizes and colors work well. Tip these lures with fresh spearing or a small live killie and cast them into the drop off or hole. Let them sink to the bottom and slowly work them back to shore twitching them slightly as they bounce along the bottom. Make sure your hooks are very sharp. The fluke will hit the bucktail pretty hard and you need to set the hook firmly. The bigger fluke will tend to bite best on the last of the incoming and the first of the outgoing tide. But that is not always the case. I have taken big fluke at dead low tide out of a deep hole. So, always be prepared for that big fish. Also, there are many schoolie striped bass around, so don't be surprised if you hook one. Remember they need to be 28" or larger to keep them. I hope this answers your questions. Email me back and let me know how you do.